Winter alpinism, Gregor KoflerOver the last ten years, many challenging combined winter routes have been climbed in the Triglav area. Some of these can be said to be of the highest quality and most demanding in the country. A true mountaineer will be lured to the Vrata, Kot and Krma valleys either by the Triglav North Face, one of the most beautiful in the Eastern Alps, or by the Stenar East Face and the other walls and peaks in the surrounding area.
Triglav North Face
Slovenian Route, IV/ 2, 800 m, 3–5 h
From Aljažev dom to the route entry 1 h 40 min. The route is mostly well-known and climbed a lot, even in winter. It has also been skied several times. In winter, the most favourable variants are usually through Kamini in the lower part and after the Prevec exit in the upper part. Across the white slabs, which are not covered with snow when levels are low. The best descent is over Prag or, if there is risk of avalanche, into the Krma Valley. The road to the Vrata Valley is not passable in winter, so the time is extended accordingly. It is a full-day tour.
Sanjski ozebnik Route, V+/5, M7, 1,100 m, 90⁰/75⁰, 40⁰–85⁰
One of the greatest routes the Alps can offer in winter. For such a long route, the point of giving a description is questionable. In the first five sections to the bottom of Črni graben the route is unmistakable, but all the variants are very steep and, because they are poorly secured, they are also mentally demanding.
Stenar (2,501 m), East Face
Tomazin Route, IV/3, 1,000 m, 90⁰, 45⁰–65⁰ Stenar is home to the largest number of winter routes in Slovenia. The magnificent East Face, beautifully visible from the road to Mojstrana, is familiar to all. In good winters, this snow wall, over 800 m high, is a magnet for climbers who fancy long and interesting ascents. The wall is covered by numerous gullies and shallow, steep gorges, with routes of varying difficulty running along them.
